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LEXICON
A SCHOOL THAT LASTS
NATURAL COROZO
The fruit of the palm tree in Ecuador, also known as vegetable ivory, corozo is used to make buttons.
Its original light hue develops a patina over time, becoming more and more like certain woods, bone or ivory. At Kidur, all our shirts feature natural corozo buttons.
KUWAMURA
Founded in 1928 by Ryutaro Kuwamura, the factory originally dedicated to "banshu-ori" weaving closed in 1943 during the Second World War.
Restored in 1947, it reopened equipped with 12 Jacquard looms.
It now specializes in weaving cotton into dyed yarns.
SHIBAYA
Founded in 1907 in Osaka, Japan, the Shibaya weaving company started out as a manufacturer of large cotton cloths.
The company has since specialized in the manufacture of fabrics for workwear and uniforms.
TOKI-SEN-I
Japanese knitwear workshop founded in 1984.
Specialists in knitwear, they combine modern technology with traditional know-how, manufacturing on ancient "Tsuri" knitting machines. They idle their machines for a slower production process, which results in a knit with a particularly soft, supple and comfortable character, a knit that could not be produced on today's circular knitting machines.
GRAMMING
Each fabric is characterized by its grammage per linear meter, i.e. its weight per meter of fabric.
Grammages range from 90 gr/m for a thin fabric to 800 gr/m for a very thick fabric.
TEINTED WIRES
Yarns pre-dyed before being woven. Fabrics made from dyed yarns are more resistant to washing and wear.
BEE'S NEST
Fabric with small cells formed by weaving
Features: comfort, softness, sturdiness, wrinkle-free, good moisture absorption and quick drying.
Honeycomb armor.
FLANELLE
From the Galois "glâwn" meaning "wool", flannel was originally made exclusively of wool fibers, woven into a soft, loose fabric. Today, flannel is generally made of cotton.
Qualities: softness and warmth thanks to the scratch-resistant surface, supple and crease-resistant.
Canvas
This is the simplest weave: a weft thread passes successively over and under a warp thread. It is one of the three main weaves, along with twill and satin.
NATTÉ
This is the simplest weave: a weft thread passes successively over and under a warp thread. It is one of the three main weaves, along with twill and satin.
Gabardine
Created in 1880 by Thomas Burberry, gabardine is a fabric characterized by its tight weave and relative impermeability.
twill
This is a cross twill armor characterized by diagonals running from left to right.
Characteristics: Resistant, supple and crease-resistant.
tweed
Plain weave or twill.
Tweed was originally made exclusively from wool fibers.
Color effects are achieved by twisting a multi-strand yarn in different shades.
Qualities: Highly resistant, soft and warm, supple and crease-resistant.
MOLLETON
Knitted fabric, scraped or not on the reverse side. Fleece is elastic, soft and used to make sweatshirts.
RAGLAN SLEEVE
Created for the English general Raglan, who lost an arm at the Battle of Waterloo, the raglan sleeve features a seam that runs from the underside of the arm to the neckline. This makes the garment easy to put on and comfortable to wear.
CAMP COLLAR
Open collar with storm flap, button and drawstring. Camp shirts from Manufacture de vetements Kidur all feature this little strap to close the top of the shirt.
American Throat
Button placket sewn into the middle of the shirt. This is particularly present on casual shirts. Manufacture Kidur offers this finish on its Work Shirts, Canadian shirts and, more recently, the Meryl.
Patronage / Patron
A pattern is what we might call a template representing the shape of a garment component, laid flat. The pattern is then used as a template for cutting the fabric. Kidur has its own design office at the workshop, enabling it to develop its patterns and design its unique models.
DAo
Computer-aided design. Our model-makers in the design office use CAD to create technical files that guide the workshop teams in the manufacture of Kidur garments.
cAo
Computer-aided design. This software enables our model-makers in the design office to create patterns.
MATELASSAGE
Superimposition of layers of fabric in a mattress. Term used when cutting garments. The operator quilts layers of fabric on top of each other before cutting the pieces using patterns.
Denim, JEAN
Denim, or Nîmes twill where it originated, is a twill-weave cotton fabric. This very dense, strong material is characterized by a diagonal pattern. At the time, it was used to make robust, protective workers' garments.
Twill could be plain cotton or other materials, or a mixture of unbleached weft yarns and warp yarns dyed in gênes blue, or Blue Jean and then simply JEAN.
DENIM and JEAN are the typical materials used to make JEAN pants and jackets.
selvedge
Or Self Finished Edge, is a typical DENIM finish. Instead of leaving the weft threads at the fringe, the loom lays a selvedge that holds the weave in position and prevents it from slackening. This finish is typical of dense, heavy DENIMs, and the thread color of the selvedge can be a trademark of the weaver.
CANDIANI
Founded in 1938 in northern Italy's Ticino Valley nature reserve, Candiani Denim is one of the world's most virtuous denim manufacturers. Specializing in rigid and selvedge denim, Candiani is Europe's largest denim factory.
Sustainable production, circularity and recycling are at the heart of the Candiani organization. The use of clean technology and biodegradable components enables Candiani to use much less water and to weave less waste. DENIM SELVEDGE eco-designed.
right hand twill
There are several ways to weave a SERGE or TWILL.
The most common is the RIGHT HAND TWILL or Z TWILL, where the diagonal pattern appears to rise from bottom left to top right. This weave is a DENIM standard, ensuring a flat, smooth weave and making it ideal for heavy, thick fabrics.
3 x 1
Often combined in DENIM with Z TWILL, 3X1 sees the INDIGO warp thread overlap the ecru weft thread only every third thread. This Z TWILL design is the most robust and is almost always found in workwear garments, of which JEAN pieces are a part.
GRADATION
Graduation is the enlargement or reduction of a basic pattern to obtain smaller or larger sizes.
