Terminology

Natural Corozo

Also known as vegetable ivory, corozo comes from the seeds of Ecuadorian palms and is used to make buttons.

Its initially light color burnishes over time, making it increasingly resemble of certain kinds of wood, or bone or ivory. 

Kuwamura

Built in 1928 by Ryutaro Kuwamura to weave Banshu-Ori fabric, this mill closed in 1943, during World War II.

Refurbished in 1947, it reopened with 12 Jacquard looms. 

It now specializes in dyed-yarn cotton weaving.

Shibaya

Created in 1907 in Osaka, Japan, this weaving company started out manufacturing large reams of cotton. Shibaya now specializes in fabrics used for work clothes and uniforms.

Toki-Sen-I

A Japanese knitted fabric workshop, founded in 1984.

Experts in knitted fabrics, Toki-Sen-I combine modern technology with traditional knowledge by using vintage Tsuri looms. These looms work slower, weaving particularly soft, supple, comfortable fabric that is impossible to produce with current circular looms.

GSM

Each fabric has a particular GSM, or weight per square meter.

GSMs range from 90 grams for a thin fabric, to 800 grams for a very thick fabric.

Dyed yarn 

This yarn is dyed prior to weaving. 

Waffle cloth 

A fabric woven in a raised honeycombed pattern. 

Characteristics : comfortable, soft, sturdy, crease resistant, absorbent, and quick-drying. 

 

Waffle weave 

 

Flannel

From the Welsh word "gwalen", meaning "wool", flannel was originally made of pure wool, woven into a fairly loose, soft cloth. Nowadays, it is usually made out of cotton.

Characteristics : soft and warm (due to its brushed surface), supple, and crease resistant. 

 

Plain weave

This is the simplest weave: the weft passes alternately under and over the warp. 

It is one of the three main weaves, along with twill and satin. 

 

Basketweave

Basketweave is a form of plain weave, where two to four weft threads pass alternately under the same number of warp threads, in order to create a checkered pattern.

Characteristics : extremely hard-wearing, it becomes more supple over time. 

 

Gabardine

Invented in 1880 by Thomas Burberry, gabardine is known for its tight weave and relative water resistance. 

 

Twill

It is a crossed twill weave characterized by its diagonals that rise from left to right.

Characteristics : Resistant, supple and crease resistant.

Tweed

It is one of the three main weaves, along with plain and satin weaves.

Tweed was originally exclusively made of wool fibers.

The color effects are obtained by a thread of several twisted strands of different hues.

Characteristics : Resistant, soft and warm, supple and crease resistant.

Fleece

A knitted fabric that may, or may not, be brushed on one side. Is stretchy, soft, and used to make sweatshirts. 

Raglan sleeve

Designed for General Raglan, an English soldier who lost his arm at the battle of Waterloo, the seam of a Raglan sleeve runs from under the arm up to the collar. It is easy to slip on and comfortable to wear. 

« Camp Collar »

Open collar with facing, adorned with button and loop. 

 

Front placket 

A button tab stitched down the front middle of the shirt. 

 

Pattern

A pattern is a kind of template representing the flat shape of a section of an item of clothing. The pattern is used as a guide for cutting the fabric. 

CAD

Computer-Assisted Design.

AC

Automated cutting.

Grading

Adjustments made to a medium-sized pattern to create smaller and larger sizes. 

Spreading

Laying out layers of fabric one on top of the other.